Some say it’s Ye Olde Trip to Jerusalem in Nottingham; others swear blind it’s The Bingley Arms up in Bardsey near Leeds (as a Yorkshireman, that gets my vote!); but time and again, one name keeps bubbling up to the top of the barrel ... Ye Olde Fighting Cocks, nestled in the heart of St Albans, Hertfordshire.
This remarkable little pub claims to have been serving thirsty locals and weary travellers since AD 793, which is quite something when you think about it. That’s more than 1,200 years of drinking history, long before hops were even common in beer, before the Battle of Hastings, before England was, well… England.
The Pub with a Past
The story of Ye Olde Fighting Cocks reads like a pint-soaked slice of English history. The current building, with its crooked beams and low ceilings, dates mainly from the 11th century, but there’s solid evidence that a pub or alehouse stood on or near the same site as far back as the 8th century.
Back then, St Albans was a hub for travellers and pilgrims heading to the nearby Abbey, a place of refuge, prayer, and, apparently, decent ale. Monks were often involved in early brewing, both for sustenance and to raise funds for their monasteries, so it’s not far-fetched to imagine holy men brewing up in the area long before the Doomsday Book came along.
The pub’s octagonal shape and timber-frame structure give it a distinctive, medieval charm; step inside and you can feel the centuries pressing in around you. Low beams, uneven floors, roaring fires, and the smell of oak and ale, it’s like stepping through time.
What’s in a Name?
Now, “Ye Olde Fighting Cocks” is quite the name, isn’t it? It conjures up all sorts of images, and yes, it does refer to the now-illegal sport of cockfighting. In the 18th and 19th centuries, cockfighting was a popular (if grim) pastime, and the pub earned its name because the sport was allegedly held there.
Rumour has it that the cellar once hosted cockfights, though it’s just as likely that the name was adopted later to add a bit of colourful character, something publicans have been doing for centuries.
Before that, it went by several names including The Round House and The Fisherman’s Inn, thanks to its proximity to the River Ver, which runs alongside the pub. Over time, “Ye Olde Fighting Cocks” stuck, and it’s now one of the most recognisable pub names in the country.
A Tunnel to the Abbey?
No ancient pub would be complete without a touch of mystery, and Ye Olde Fighting Cocks has plenty. Local legend tells of a tunnel running from the pub’s cellar directly to St Albans Abbey, supposedly used by monks to slip in and out unnoticed.
Was it for secret beer deliveries, quiet prayers, or something a bit more mischievous? Nobody knows for sure, and while no one’s found conclusive proof, it’s exactly the sort of tale that keeps pubs like this alive in the imagination.
A Survivor Through the Centuries
Think about it, this pub has seen it all. Vikings, Normans, civil wars, plagues, industrial revolutions, and lockdowns. It’s survived regime changes, new tax laws, and the rise and fall of countless breweries.
Over the centuries, Ye Olde Fighting Cocks has been rebuilt, repaired, and extended, but always with care to preserve its original character. You can still see the timber framework and brick infill that date back hundreds of years. Inside, there’s barely a straight line in sight, but that’s part of its charm.
Like many old pubs, it’s changed hands a fair few times, yet it’s still a pub, still a place to gather, talk, and share a pint. There aren’t many businesses you can say that about after more than a millennium.
The Other Contenders
Of course, not everyone agrees that Ye Olde Fighting Cocks deserves the crown.
The Bingley Arms in Bardsey, West Yorkshire, claims to have been founded in AD 953, and I’ll admit, that gives it a fair shout. It’s certainly old enough to have served Norman knights and medieval monks, and its records are pretty solid.
Then there’s Ye Olde Trip to Jerusalem in Nottingham, which proudly dates itself to 1189, the year Richard the Lionheart became king. The pub is partly carved into the sandstone rock beneath Nottingham Castle, and that’s as unique as they come.
Down in Gloucestershire, The Porch House in Stow-on-the-Wold also boasts a long pedigree, with parts of the building dating to the 10th century.
The truth is, all these pubs have their claims, and the records from that long ago are patchy at best. So rather than arguing, perhaps we should just raise a glass to them all.
Still, Ye Olde Fighting Cocks has the edge in sheer romance; that evocative name, that ancient setting beside the abbey, and that unbroken chain of hospitality stretching back over a thousand years.
The Pub Today
Despite its age, Ye Olde Fighting Cocks isn’t some dusty relic. It’s still a working pub, busy with locals, day-trippers, and curious tourists. You’ll find hearty food, proper pints, and a warm welcome inside.
The menu features good British classics, fish and chips, pies, and Sunday roasts, all best enjoyed with a pint of something like McMullen’s AK, the local ale from Hertford. There’s live music now and again, and the pub’s dog-friendly too; a nod to the fact that community pubs have to move with the times while keeping that old soul alive.
After a brief closure a couple of years ago, the pub reopened under new management, refreshed but still unmistakably itself. The locals rallied behind it, and that says everything you need to know. When a community pub like this reopens its doors, it’s not just a business returning, it’s a bit of history being kept alive.
Why Pubs Like This Matter
There’s something reassuring about a pub that’s older than most of recorded English history. You walk into Ye Olde Fighting Cocks, order your pint, and realise you’re part of a tradition that’s been going on for over a millennium. That’s quite humbling, really.
These ancient inns aren’t just buildings; they’re living, breathing parts of our national story. They’ve been safe havens, meeting places, and story-swapping spots for generations. And in a world that’s moving faster every year, that sense of continuity is worth celebrating.
So whether or not Ye Olde Fighting Cocks truly is the oldest pub in England doesn’t really matter in the end. What matters is that it’s still there, still serving, still connecting people, and still giving us an excuse to raise a glass to our shared history.
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